Chapter 7 Antique Puerh



Yunnan is located on the southwestern border of China. Due to the fact that climate there constantly changes, there is a saying "4 seasons in a mountain, different skies in 10 miles", which is very suitable for "Multi-dimensional Farming". Yunnan is the place where tea trees originated. Within the province, there were discoveries of ancient tea trees such as the 1700 years old "Bada" wild tea tree, and the 800 years old tea tree that was planted on the "Nan-Nuo" mountain. After hundreds and thousands of years, these trees Still have green leaves and new branches growing. Even the Chinese government regards it as a treasure and must be protected.

Yunnan broad leaf species have thick buds and leaves. Its buds bloom early with lots of fine hair. Its mineral contain is very rich and it became the main material used in processing the tea that is famous in history "Puerh tea"

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The six tea mountains are:
1.Youle
2.Manzhuan
3.Manza
4.Mangzhi
5.Yibang
6.Gedeng
7.Nannuo Tea Tree
8.Bada Tea Tree

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The broad leaf specie grown within the 800-mile radius is named to be the best. Although its fame declined in the end of the Qing Dynasty, its name revived today.

Long time ago, the harvesting of tealeaves are separated by season and named accordingly. The spring harvest is named "Spring Bud". The buds are only half blooms when it is picked. The summer harvest is named "second harvest". The third harvest is during the 6th and 7th month of the lunar year when the valleys are bloomed with grain flowers. This harvest is named "valley blossom". When processing this harvest, the leaves that are yellow but not dried are selected out. This selected harvest is named "golden moon". Its taste is especially strong.
 
From the beginning to the mid Qing Dynasty, the development and popularity of Puerh Tea is at its peak. At the time, almost every family plants and sells tea; even the royalties take tea as a form of tributes. After a hundred years, teacakes from famous private tea companies such as, "Song Ping", "Tong Hing", "Tong Zhing", and "King Chong" are very rare and those keep in good condition are treasures which antique tea collectors look for.

Characteristics of Antique Tea
1. Bamboo Leaf Packaging
- A set of 12 individual teacakes is wrap together with the strong skin from bamboo trees on the outside. In the inside, it places soft bamboo leaves to protect the teacakes. With these hard shell and soft insulation, the teacake is protected from contamination from outside.

2. Bamboo String
- Each set of teacakes uses six strings made with bamboo leaf to tighten the bamboo leaf packaging. This causes the outer shell of each set of teacakes to look wavy on the side.


 
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3. Label Stamp (Left picture below)
- On the top of each teacake set, there will be a piece of bamboo leaf being wrap bottom side up. Over time, the colour of this piece leaf will turn to bright yellow, which is
different from the other ones. The label stamp will contain a brief description of the tea's origin.

4. Inner Label (Middle picture below)
- The inner label is placed between the first and second piece of teacake. It is larger in size and the content, design, and the printing technique constantly changes with the advance of technology. With this inner label, we can understand the printing techniques, social morality, and operating method at the time.

 
Chicken & Kidney
 
In the early 50's, the sensitivity in political issues was strong both in Hong Kong and Macau. British and Portugue governments are very restrictive and most of the business people were very low profile on their relationship with Chinese government. But there were a few exceptions like Mr. Koo from Hong Kong and Mr. Ho from Macau. Both of them were very wealthy. There were rumors about a dinner they had with the chairman of China, Mao Che Dong.

During the dinner, Mao served a piece of chicken to Mr. Koo and a piece of chicken kidney was served to Mr. Ho. When the rumor spread, Mr. Koo and Mr. Ho were given a nickname by other people. Mr. Koo was given "Mao Kep Kee" (Mao served Chicken) and Mr. Ho was given "Mao Kep Sin" (Mao served kidney).

Other also have explanation to these two names. Because Mr. Koo's Chinese name had the word "Hong" and when matched with the word chicken, it meant "roaster." And Mr. Ho's Chinese name had the word "Yin" which is written similar to the word "kidney". Due to these reasons, many other rumors arose.

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Harvested during June and July, these tea is called "Valley Flower"  

 
White Tea
 
In the county of "Fu Ting" and "Jin Woo" within the province of "Fu Jiang", the production of white tea already had a hundred years of history. Today, white tea is separated into four types. 

1. Silver Needle
It is made with buds from the Great White species tea trees. When it is harvest, the quality will change upon the weather. If it is picked on a sunny day with northern wind, the tea buds will be snow white. If it is picked on a rainy day with southern wind, the tea buds will carry a darker color. After processing, the tealeaf's color is white like silver and a pin-like appearance.

(a). Northern Silver Pin is made in "Fu Ting" using the "grill dried" method. Its tea buds are strong and has lots of white hair and brightness.

(b). Southern Silver Pin is made in "Jin Woo" using the "sun dried" method, which is also known as "sun dried pin". Its tea buds are thin and long. It is not as bright in color but the taste is stronger.

2. Best White Tea
It is made with single bud double leaf from the Great White species tea tree. It is also called "spear white tea" with a light yellow tea color. The best quality best white tea is made in "Jin Woo".

3. Tribute White Tea It is made with single bud triple leaf from the Little White species tea trees. The tealeaf's color is bright green and the tea color is deep yellow. It has a stronger taste.

4. "Fu Jiang" New White Tea
It is made with dying leaves from Little White species tea tree and rolled into a round shape by hand. Its tealeaf's color is dark green and the tea color is orange red. The fragrance is light but the taste is strong. The tea that is made after 1968 is specifically called "New Artistic White Tea"

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When we talk about white tea and Vietnam tea, we must mention a senior in the industry, who had been the chairman of the Tea Association, and others call him Nice Guy, Mr. Yi Chi Huan.

Mr. Yi Chi Hang is from Guangdong He Shan. After graduating in the Southeastern College of Hong Kong, he continued his studies in the Qujiang Zhongshan University of Canton. In 1935, he came back to Hong Kong with his father, Mr Yi Kwun Yuen, and start working in the tealeaf distribution industry.
 
Mr. Yi starts to manage Xie Feng Tea Company and in the same year, his company joined with Wan Chun Hong, Zhen Mao Tai and Yuan Heng to exclusively import and distribute Qing Hong Mao Tea and white tea from China to Hong Kong.
 
The operating method is the exclusive distributor can get 15% gross profit from the sales value. If there is a loss, the company can explain in details where and how much they sell for the tea and ask for compensation.In the 70's, I've also seen this kind of methods.
 
In 1967, the political situation in Hong Kong was very unstable. The Chinese government established Conflict Committee of Tea Industry and invited Mr. Yi to be the president. Mr. Yi refused the post and Mr. Ngan took it up. Mr. Ngan is from Da Lai Tea Company which Mr. Yi is also one of the owner. Xin Xing Tea Company and Qi Zhan Tea Company became the vice president. After the conflict the sales of Xie Feng Tea Company had decreased. Mr. Yi had to write a regret note explaining the reason for refusing the president post.

In the 70's, the rights to exclusively distribute white tea was mainly in the hands of Xie Feng Tea Company. Then there were Dong Rong, Yuan Heng, Hui Yuan, and Da Lai Tea Company doing the same thing. At the time, white tea was very popular in Hong Kong and the supply cannot always fulfill the demand. In February of every year, other second distributors and retailers all place their orders and reserve the amount of the white tea in each grade they need. When the tea comes in April, the exclusive distributor will distribute their inventory according to their relationship with the company. The prices of these white teas are determined by the few exclusive distributors. At that time, it was the best days of the white tea. It's sales were high with big profit. Because of this, white tea from Taiwan like Taiwanese Peony and Tai Qiu Tea also came to compete in the white tea market.

In the early days, our Yi Yuan Trading Company has joined the market of Taiwan. Later, China produced the cheaper grade New Craft White Tea to compete with the Taiwan tea.

White Tea is not popular on the international stage. Only Chinese people and restaurant in Hong Kong and Macau will be interested to white tea. After the open up of China market, tea farmer and manufacturer no longer have government support. The production of white tea increased daily. Deregulated imports of white tea to Hong Kong also increased, so the exclusive distribution policy can no longer control the market.

Due to the overwhelm in white tea supply, exclusive distributor must reduce their price to compete with the deregulated distributors. In 2000, the exclusive distributor changed their packaging to paper boxes in order to separate from the deregulated products, which is still packaged in the conventional wooden box. Although the product from exclusive distributor is more stable in quality, the prices are still higher.

So its main customers are second distributors who demand more in quality. The market for white tea is no longer like its best days, sometimes these exclusive and deregulated distributors are will to loss money and sell the product because white tea cannot be stored for a long period of time.
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(Left) Paper Box from Exclusive Distributor
(Right) Wooden Box from Deregulated Distributor

 
Vietnam Tea

The northern boundary of Vietnam is connected to the province of Yunnan, China. Due to this geological reason, tea trees had spread its seeds downstream long time ago. Although the production of tea in Vietnam had hundreds of years in history, there is not much information about what happened at the time. Also, Vietnam was once colonized by France, so the tea industry had died out. It was until the 1900's when the tea industry really revived. In 1926, large amounts of "raw green tea" were shipped to China and Hong Kong. In 1953, Wan Chun Hong in Hong Kong imported a shipment of first class Puerh packaged with bamboo basket in the inside and bamboo bag on the outside. This kind of packaging was a characteristic of early shipments of Vietnam tea. In the 70's, the packaging changed to Bamboo Bag and they were classified by quality with "Kong", "111", "222", and "333". In the 90's, the packaging changed again to nylon bag.

Due to the high cost in Hong Kong, the manufacturer relocated themselves to China or Vietnam. Vietnam tea is separated into North Vietnam Tea and South Vietnam Tea. North Vietnam Tea is known to be better in quality because the climate and environment there were closer to Yunnan.

In the autumn of 1961, Pu Lian Company was formed. It was headed by Mr. Yi's Xie Feng Tea Company. It also included Tian Sheng Hong, Jian Feng Tea Company, Wan Chun Hong, Song Cheng Tea Company, Yuan Heng Tea Company, and Da Lai Tea Company. The company systematically imported and distributed Vietnam tea to Hong Kong. Due to the limited supply and the high price of Yunnan tea, Vietnam tea became very popular to the tea processor in Hong Kong. With good timing and distribution channel, the price, sales, and profits increased exponentially. Within a few years, the company made a fortune and purchased a warehouse in Sai Wan named Le Jia Warehouse. It allows their customer to store tea and to store their future stocks. After a few years, Le Jia Warehouse was sold in a high price due to the business boom in the surrounding area.
       
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Vietnam Tea

http://www.sunsingtea.com/chi/images/story/Vietnam.jpg  Bamboo Bag from the 1970's Label "111"  
http://www.sunsingtea.com/chi/images/story/Bamboo.jpg Nylon Bag from the 1990's Label "111"

                       

 
Traitor

During the 70's, the relationship between China and Vietnam changed from allies to enemies and they later declared war. Pu Lian Company was told not to sell enemy's product by the Chinese government. Tian Sheng Hong was even supplied with the distribution rights of Yunnan Tuo Cha as a compensation. The Chinese government also announced that if tea companies were found selling Vietnam tea, they would stop the supply of Chinese tea and treat them as traitor of China. Once this announcement was made, no body was willing to buy these Vietnam tea and large amount of stock were stuck in the warehouse in Lei Yue Mun. The holder of these stocks had to think of plans to sell these Vietnam tea. First, they find a retired senior salesperson in the tea industry to be an intermediary. He then negotiates with a few buyers in a very low price.

The buyer purchased these Vietnam tea with cash or money order in name of another company. These teas were secretly sold and transferred to warehouses in the outskirts of Hing Kong. When Vietnam teas are aged and mixed with other tea, it is very hard to detect. But eventually, many rumors broke out in the tea industry. Some of these rumors were real and some were fake. The suspected buyers denied to these rumor, and these rumors developed into a big storm within the tea industry. Where ever that retired senior were, people in the tea industry kept distance with him because they do not want to become another suspect in the rumors.

As the war came to an end, these rumors were finally over. Each tea company knew who the real buyer was. At that time, the demand for North Vietnam teas was very high. So a condition was placed on every purchase. In order to buy top quality North Vietnam tea, the buyer must also buy the lower quality raw tea.

Recently, China and Vietnam had opened their economy. Tea processors in Hong Kong were eliminated. These raw teas were now either processed in Vietnam or exported to China. Only the final product will be imported to Hong Kong for sale.


 
Oolong Tea

The province of Fu Jian is the treasure chest of Oolong and their productions also have expanded to the province of CanTon and Taiwan. Oolong is mainly produced in Min Bei, Min Nam, CanTon, and Taiwan.

1. Min Bei Oolong
It is mainly produced in Ching An, Jian Au, and Jian Yang. Chong An Mountain of Wu Yi mainly produces "Rock Tea" such as Da Hong Pao. With superior tealeaves and procession methods, these oolong teas are really a class of its own. They are known as Wu Yi Rock Tea. Jian ou and Jian Yang are both famous in the production of Shui Xian.
2. Min Nam Oolong
This area is famous in producing Ti Kwun Yin with An Xi as the production center. There are also other species, which are classified as Se Zhong (colored species). In this category, the most famous is "Wong Yam" a.k.a. "Wong Tang". It became very popular in the 80's in the South East Asia.

3. CanTon Oolong
It is mainly produce in the ranches of Phoenix Mountain in the province of Canton. The most famous production is "Phoenix Bush", followed by "Phoenix Long Chai". It also produces the low quality "Phoenix Shui Xian". The Rao Ping Shui Xian that was product in the 70's was not good in quality. But in recent years, Pak Yip Bush that were produced in the province of Chao Zhou and on heavily promoted has great quality.

4. Taiwan Oolong
It is mainly produced in Taipei, which has the production of Pao Zhong and Oolong. Its best production is Dong Ding Oolong from Nan Tou Xian Lu Jiao Xiang.

One of the characteristics of Oolong tea is its green leaf with red borders. This means the center of the leaf has a green color while the edge of the leaf has a red color. Although different species, production area, and processed quality will give the oolong tea a different characteristic, all of them shared a similar characteristic.

All oolong has a strong pure taste and a special and specific after taste. "Rock Tea" will have a rock after taste and Ti Kwun Yin has a Kwun Yin after taste. Rock tealeaf will be denser while Ti Kwun Yin tealeaf will expand after they are brewed.
 
 
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    Oolong Tea Factory

 
Ti Kwun Yin
Ti Kwun Yin (Oolong Tea) is classified as semi ferment tea and mainly produced in the county of Anxi in the province of Fu Jian. The standard for harvesting the tealeaves is when the bud just started to bloom and it must be hand pick with the protection of 3 to 40 surrounding leaves.

The tealeaves appear thick and curly with red borders along the green leaf. It is very dense and it expands when it is brewed with hot water. It is the best to use purple clay pot when brewing Ti Kwun Yin. Its fragrance will be kept in the pot for a long period of time. The tea has a goldish colour and light floral scent. This floral scent will remain in your mouth after you consume the tea. Ti Kwun Yin is known to help digestion and a refreshing effect.
In the 70's, Japanese researchers discovered Ti Kwun Yin helps to prevent cancer. In 1979, Fu Jian Tea Company held a tea exhibition in Japan. Ti Kwun Yin became very popular among the Japanese due to this exhibition. Japanese tea companies then travel to Hong Kong in search of top grade Ti Kwun Yin. At the time, there were not too many stocks left in Hong Kong but the demand from Japan keeps increasing. This causes the retail price of Ti Kwun Yin to inflate dramatically. 

Since the distributors cannot increase their selling price due to agreements, they then put a condition on each purchase. For a Box of top grade Ti Kwun Yin serial number K-100, the buyer must also purchase 20 boxes of low quality tea, which has no demand. Even with this condition, buyer who does not have good relations with the suppliers couldn't get any of the stock. Some of the more ambitious buyer will bring cash and go directly to the farmers. After closing the deal, with the farmer, it will be shipped back to Hong Kong through a special route. At the time, robbers were very active along the highway from Shan Tou to Hong Kong. There were many cases when robbers kill the transporters and rob the cargo. This posts a life threat to purchase tea from farmer. But due to the high return in profit, many people were willing to take the risk.

Oolong Tea is very popular in Hong Kong and Southeast Asia but the Japanese had special methods in preparing these teas such as cooking the tea with Ti Kwun Yin powder and packaged into canned drinks. Without carbonizing and other additives, it became a modernize, natural, healthy beverage. It can even be purchase from vending machines in public places. In the time, I've been to Tokyo and had a chance to try the canned Oolong tea. It tastes sweet and a light floral fragrance. In a later time, I've tried canned Oolong tea in Hong Kong. But the taste and quality is not as good as the ones in Japan.

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                        Origin of Ti Kwun Yin   Xi Ping      Ti Kwun Yin Leaves       
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  Ti Kwun Yin
In the recent years, Oolong tea became very famous international Even the county of Anxi held Ti Kwun Yin tea king contest to increase the quality produced by local farmers. Every year the contest became more and more interesting. In 1999, the contest that took place in Furama Hotel of Hong Kong was remarkable. The price winning tea king was auctioned hosted by Mr. Chou Lan. Many people bided for it and 100 grams of Ti Kwun Yin was sold for One hundred and ten Thousand Hong Kong Dollars. The next day, even the press reported this event.

http://www.sunsingtea.com/chi/images/story/Mr_Chou_Lan.jpgMr. Chou Lan was hosting the auction 
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An Xi Ti Kwun Yin Competition 1999

 
Puerh Tea in 70's
The Winning Policy
When I was working in Wing Sung Cheung Tea Company in 1968 selling Chinese tea, there was an interesting policy. Supplier in China sent a letter to Hong Kong stating the retail price and the maximum profit margin. If the tea was not selling good and had to use a discounted price, the reseller can send the supplier a form stating the discounted price. Chinese government will then compensate the difference. This policy lasted for quite a while.

In the 70's, I've started my career in sales agent. During that time, Puerh tea was very popular in Hong Kong. However, China only supplied small quantity to Hong Kong. These cause importers to import large quantity of raw tea from Thailand, Indonesia, Vietnam, and Myanmar.  It is then process into Puerh tea. At the time, it was almost impossible to find raw Yunnan tea because China wants to have the tea process inside the country.

Puerh Tea in 70's

Tong Wing was the first one to import "74102" rough Yunnan raw at the price of $2 per 600grams. They were packed in 20K fillis bag by steam. These teas have a strong bright taste but the tealeaves were too rough. Me and a friend of mine purchased a large lot and stored in Kam Tin, New Territories  and Yuen Long. At the end, they were sold with a very small profit because the tealeaves were too rough which made it difficult to mix with other tea.

Tong Wing also imported a shipment of "7601" (Right Picture) loose Yunnan raw tea. They were packed by basket on the outside and bamboo leaf in the inside in 30K. The tealeaves were tight and curl and had a deep and bright taste. It cost $4.9 per 600grams but it had to be aged for a few years before it can be drink. During this time, many Yunnan teacakes were imported to Hong Kong. Even tea companies who use to import oolong tea did so too. However, since Yunnan teacake did not come to Hong Kong for a long time already, the demand was still higher than the supply.

There were a few teacakes that can represent the 70's. The first one is "Xia Guan" iron press non-ferment teacake (a.k.a. Xia Guan Iron Cake) packed in wooden box imported by Tong Wing. There were also "7612-7613" non-ferment teacake imported by Yuen Hung Suen Tea company and Wooden Boxed Little Yellow Label. One experienced tea reseller ordered 235 tea cakes from Meng Hai. These teacakes were made by 7th grade Meng Hai raw tea and were labeled "7572". This set of "7572" is different from "7572" ferment teacake, which was made in a later date. These teacakes came to Hong Kong only for a short while before they were all sold to an old teahouse. Till today, that corporation have many restaurant and in business for 2 generations. At the time, many teahouses store large quantity of Puerh tea. They were used separately in order to protect the quality of the tea they serve. 2 years ago, I have found these teacakes and the owner agreed to sell it to me. But there were only very little left, especially teacake sets still packed in the original bamboo leaf.




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Xia Guan Iron Cake               Little Yellow Label

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 7572 Raw Teacake                                                   Wooden Box of Little Yellow Label
There were 3 other teacakes produced around the same time. Xia Guan iron cake has a strong deep taste. However, it is press too hard, which made the aging process difficult. So the sweetness and smoothness of the tea were negatively affected. Wooden boxed Little Yellow Label were made by Meng Hai raw tea buds. Since they were stored in dry storage, its taste and aroma is very strong yet smooth and sweet. If it can be aged for more years, this will become a top class antique tea. " 7572" was also made by 7th grade raw tea from Meng Hai. But since it was wrapped in bamboo leaf and stored in ground storage, it aged very well. "7572" has a pure fragrance and a smooth sweet taste. After two more years of aging in dry storage, fragrance and taste had only become better.

In 1975, there was also a set of "7582"(left label) ferment teacakes manufactured at the time. It used Meng Hai 8th grade raw tea and it had been aged for over 27 years. It can brew a pure sweet taste and ginseng fragrance. Another set of teacake made by semi ferment raw tea is called the large yellow label. Its taste is more lively then "7582" but still not as good as non-ferment teacakes.
 
Red and Blue
At the time, the Chinese government planned to develop Yunnan's Tea industry, and they invited Mr. Koo to help. He then sent the director of his company's tea department, Mr. Lau. At the time, Mr. Lau was 30 years of age and very passionate in his career. Up till today, at the age of 70, he is still strong and energetic. In 1979, Mr. Lau was one of the partners of my company, Yick Yuen Trading Company.

Mr. Lau chose top-grade "Rice Flower Tea" and "Secondary Sprout Tea" raw tealeaves from the broad leaf species and manufactured them into teacakes in large quantity. Due to the reason that the printing on the package was all red, it is now known as the famous "Hong Yin (Red Label)". But at the time, the sales of these teacakes was not good, so Mr. Lau decide to produce a set of lower grade teacakes. These teacakes were manufactured from a cheaper raw tealeaf also from the broad leaf species.

Due to a mistake by the manufacturing staff, the Blue Label teacakes were separated into A-grade and B-grade, But the buyers in Hong Kong were not satisfy with this kind of classification. So they had to use colorings to cover the words or re-package the teacake. A senior in the tea industry, Mr. Yee, went to the 1958 Spring Trade Show. At the time, private company's teacakes, Red Label, and Blue Label can be purchased easily. It is because these teacakes were hard to gain profit.

During the mid 80's, the owner of a Chinese restaurant passed away and his descendants sold many of the tea in the restaurant's warehouse to Mr. Lau. Mr. Lau and his friends (including myself) brought these teacakes. It included 2 sets of "Tong Xing", 100 skids (1 skid = 12 sets) of Red Label, 30 skids of "99101 CanTon teacake".

During the time, these teacakes were not popular, so the prices were not that high. Such as: a set of "Tong Xing" for $1500, a set of Red Label for $1000, and a set of CanTon teacake for $350. It was sold out in two years and only made a small profit. Compare to the prices today, there were really a great difference.

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 Red Label                  Blue Label A Grade 
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Blue Labe B Grade        Canton Tea Cake

 Tong Xing Tube